Spirella, Health and
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The Older Woman At four o'clock that afternoon, the lazy ship's routine was cut by the whistle blowing 'abandon ship drill' and the passengers came sheepishly up the ladders in their life jackets ... The exception was old Mrs. Lomax who misheard her stewardess's assurances and came screaming on deck, bald, toothless and in her corsets. This passage comes from Richard Gordon's classic book The Captain's Table (1954). The author was a doctor and knew well the sort of woman that typically wore corsets. For sure, in the halcyon days of the 1950's, probably the zenith of the girdle, there were elegant women wearing elegant corsets, however, as Ambrose Wilson's chief corsetiere commented "let's not romance about corsetry". Men, in general, confuse underwear and romance, women never do, other than to use the power of these garments, not just to influence their figures, but their husbands as well. A doctor romances probably the least, since years of seeing all varieties of women in their 'smalls' must surely have eradicated all traces of romance. |
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The title picture was taken only three years after Richard Gordon's book was published and the sight would be familiar to many corsetieres, doctors, and long-suffering husbands. I am not for a second suggesting that this lady is actually bald and toothless, however, a fact of life in the 1950's was that the majority of adults needed dentures from their 30's. Varicose veins also were extremely common and untreated surgically, thus an immovable anchor was required to hold the powerful elastic stockings of the day. That anchor would need to be a corset or a firm girdle at the very least. For many women, the corset might have held in the burgeoning abdomen, but its primary function was to support the stockings. Nevertheless, the effect of the foundations on the women in question is rather pronounced, and her matronly bosom has been raised by at least six inches!
Dramatic postural improvement is seen in many of Spirella's
photographs. The elderly lady on the right exhibits the usual Spirella
improvements, not least of which is a remarkable elevation of her bosom,
however, I doubt that without the application of a serious dorso-lumbar
support, would such a military 'shoulders-back' posture be achieved! The abdominal supports below show something rather closer to the truth. The older lady (1930) appears unconcerned by the photographer. However, she would not have worn a black vest and knickers under her corsets. This was simply worm for the modelling session to ensure that the details of the garments could be properly seen. The desperately saggy younger lady (1937) demonstrates in the Spirella modelling garment, the huge improvement that proper foundations could achieve. Would that some of the 'couch potatoes' of the present day understand the need for adequate corsetry. Forget the modern fad for natural attention to one's figure and adequate exercise. This lady needs all the support she can get. |
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Far from criticising the corsetiere as was the case in the Victorian days of tight-lacing, doctors were often quoted as praising their efforts. In a passage from the Spirella magazine of November 1931 comes the following testimonial:-
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SPIRELLA and HEALTH -- Miss A. from Northwich, writes:- "The doctor saw my Sacro-iliac Belt on me yesterday, and he is very pleased with it. He pulled it in tighter than I had done, and I felt all the better for it. He also said that the belt will do more for me than he can do, and was surprised at the price."
The statement above is rather revealing of outmoded (although by no means incorrect) practices. Firstly, the doctor approves of the corset and even pulls it tighter! Secondly, he commented on the low price. The cost of corsets, and even girdles, that are supplied by quite some reputable manufacturers have gone through the roof in recent years. This is nothing to do with lack of demand, but simply that these garments are now classed as medical supports, and thus qualify under medical insurance. Consequently, since we all now pay (that is the purpose of insurance), rather than the individual, the garments can be sold for two or three times what they used to cost.
It grieves me that a simple Spencer girdle costs £150, and that the best back supports from Germany over £300. With pricing like this, the elegant form of the charming older women who flanks this story will become a creature of the past. |
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"It's no fun growing old"
My mother use to lament this fact. No youngster would even understand what she was talking about, but as we approach and pass Middle Age, these words start to possess an awfully familiar ring.
The following letters illustrate the trials and tribulations of growing old.
The older woman is
prey to many ailments, not the least embarrassing of which is sporadic size
changes due to water retention. Alstons, famous manufacturer of rubber
corsetry,
which was surprisingly popular in Europe in the 1960’s (and in Latin America
today), marketed a corset with two front panels: a thin one, and a wider one to
accommodate weight fluctuations or simply the desires of comfort. One of my
Mother-in-law’s bridge friends was prone to these fluctuations. My husband
recounts meeting this lady on numerous occasions as a child. Large by any
standards, her clothes were always a close fit. On one visit, obviously during a
water retention episode, he recalls that her blue silk (rayon ?) suit was so
tight that it appeared to have been sprayed onto her body. Every hook and eye of
her brassiere and the bones of her corsets were embossed on the shiny material. A
brooch had been fastened across the top of the jacket to stop it parting, and
discreetly hidden safety pins backed up the straining buttons. In such a condition she wheezed constantly and
her arms jutted stiffly from her body almost rigid in the confines of the taut
silk. Even the heavy perfume that she wore failed to disguise a vague almost
pungent odour which my husband remembers to this day. Indeed, growing old
gracefully, is not easy. Osteoporosis is
another scourge of the elderly. My corsetiere tells me of several clients, whose
first act of the day is to don their corsets, and their last act before retiring
to take them off again. An old family friend was such a person. This lady was
outstanding in her appearance. Although in her 70’s, she possessed a slim and
elegant figure. Her clothes were her extravagance, old-fashioned, yet tasteful
and expensive confections of patterned chiffons and silks. Her hair was like a
spun silver web and her stocking seams ruler straight down to her court shoes.
Only the complete rigidity of her torso indicated that she was corseted from
shoulders to thigh. She made no secret of the fact, and would jokingly say to
younger women how Spencer had looked after her figure tapping her unyielding
stomach. Her corsets, as one might suppose, were, within the constraints of
their functionality, as beautifully, yet conservatively cut as her clothes. The corsetiere’s dream-come-true is the
lace overlaid corset, which is extremely expensive, being in effect, two
corsets. This lady had two corsets in white overlaid pink satin, and two more in
black overlaid purple. The sturdy buckles, straps and bones, almost enhanced the
appearance of her stays rather than detracting from it. Presumably these
creations were thrown away after she died, as has been the fate of so many
‘collector’s items’. |
Corset laces pose a problem for the older lady. Knots and tangles can be frustratingly hard to sort out. |
Getting Dressed
(Before we begin this section, please let me inform you that the garments below are not my regular wear, simply items that an elderly lady might have worn in the 1950's - 1960's).
After 30 very happy years with my husband, there is one thing that really irritates me (and most other women). Picture the scene; we are going to a formal dinner. We need to leave the house by 7.30. I start preparing the myriad of feminine details that a lady requires, not just hours before the event, but days before in discussion with friends and appointments at the hairdresser. My husband will turn up, 20 minutes before we need to leave. Leap in and out of the shower in a time that it would take me to decide on which shampoo to use, and put on underpants, socks and dinner suit within five minutes. "OK Darling; let's go". Of course, he will then pick up the keys of his tiny sports car, rather than some transport that will accommodate a mature women, complete with expensive dress, expensive, and not necessarily flexible underwear, and a tall hair-do; at HIS request I might add!!
"I'm sorry, my Dear. How thoughtless of me" he says as he reluctantly relinquishes the keys of the tiny car for our other car that will at least allow a lady to enter and exit gracefully.
To get from THIS to THIS is neither quick nor easy!
The underwear shown in the picture, which incidentally weighs in at an amazing 1200 gr., (over 2 1/2 pounds) and that's without a slip (petticoat), has a total of 18 hooks-and-eyes, three sets of lacing, a zip, eight buckles and (thankfully) only four suspenders. In reality, six suspenders would have been required and, indeed, were even recommended in the instructions on how to don the support stockings. These 'Elbeo' masterpieces are described as regular, however, they are stronger than most modern shapers. |
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An Older Woman's Underwear has been the butt of numerous jokes and 'seaside' postcards. But many of the jokes and scenes are based on fact as the anecdotes below reveal.
I forget who once
wrote “…bereavement, complicated by disposal of the mysterious underpinnings
of the elderly woman;” but the idea is quite correct.
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It is unlikely that this view of an elderly lady (above right - Spirella 1959) would be seen by anyone other than her doctor or corsetiere. Husbands usually are privy only to the 'final product' and not the engineering involved.
Lady Mary adjusts the straps of her surgical corset
The comments above regarding Lady Mary prompted us to recreate the scene using some of our models who posed for the calendars of 2010, 2012 and 2013. Late one Autumn afternoon, I gave instructions to our Camp and Jenyns glad volunteers to act the part of Lady Mary. "Grab those straps and pull" I exhorted them. Sadly, none could keep a straight face and the pictures were largely consigned to the electronic dustbin, but there was one that, I believe, captures that moment when an elderly lady, preparing for the rigours of the day would pull the straps of her corset tight, even tighter to achieve that flatness of stomach that would allow her sensible tweed skirt to hang well. (One needed sensible tweed to disguise the engineering involved!)
In our quests for recollections of one's granny, mother or female relative's under-pinnings, it is often men that give the best responses. Usually, the advice is preceded by a defensive male bluster along the lines of "Strange hobby you fellows have," or "Not really interested in that sort of thing, you know!" The description that then follows is precise in detail as though the gentleman had made a life's study of female underwear. One that comes to mind was from a retired bank manager who was able to describe the corsets that his mother wore so precisely that we could not just identify the brand, Camp, but the model number! Oddly, his recollections of his own wife's smalls were far more vague "Some sort of elastic undies I suppose" he huffed. |
Indeed, an older woman's foundations are not simply corset, brassiere and
stockings |
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The excerpts above recount experiences completely alien to the youth of today. Ideally, brassiere, corset and stockings are well-fitted and act in concert to support the wearer, the tensional forces being distributed over the wear's torso and legs with the concentration of forces occurring exactly where it is needed. Occasionally, particularly in the elderly, weight fluctuations can alter the distribution of these tensions since the cost of new garments is prohibitive. A corsetiere once noted that a client's stockings were stretching the straps of her brassiere, so loose had her corset become. Properly fitted, foundations are the perfect support. My husband commented that they formed an exo-skeleton, not a word I had ever associated with corsetry, but actually not inappropriate.
How
often at weddings, and even more so at funerals, do the elderly appear in
ill-fitting clothes, fashionable possibly two decades before. I particularly
remember one old biddy, an acquaintance of my mother, whose wrinkled face and
flaccid neck questing curiously from the collar of her jacket, looked uncommonly
like a turtle. Her head was quite animated, yet any movement in her torso was
hidden by her suit and skirt that must have been two sizes too large for her.
In my regular
contacts with the elderly, I have noticed how badly out of shape so many old
women have become. Typically, they are hunched, their (remaining) bosom hidden
in the stooped concavity of their chests, with their stomachs protruding like
footballs. The spinal brace (Camp's dorso-lumbar support - right) ensured an almost military posture on the incumbent. Shoulders back, tummy in was the only was to stand when well strapped into this device. I remember seeing one old dear who had been over-tightened into one such corset. She strutted into dinner at an Eastbourne hotel, each step a jerky battle of muscle and elastic. She sat rigid and erect with her less formidably corsetted friends. When the soup came, she could not raise her hands as far as her mouth and in embarrassment left the table. Some while later she returned, less erect with mobility restored. Sadly, her teeth were no match for the meat that some thoughtless friend had ordered. One assumes she went to bed hungry! |
Military posture guaranteed, but don't overtighten this device; it can actually pull the shoulder blades into contact with each other. Pull your shoulders back and try to raise your hands to your mouth! |
I would like to end this section with another photograph of the charming lady who features at the beginning. She taught us all a lesson and perhaps there is still plenty of fun to had when one grows old!
Indeed, there is a knack to .....
"Growing Old Gracefully"
"I was expecting someone about sixty with tinted hair, an enamelled face, tight corsets, like a sort of toughened up Queen Victoria" quoted the girl in John Wyndam's book, 'The Trouble with Lichen' (1960).
Growing old gracefully, comes easily to some, but not to others. Vanity pays a heavy price in later years, and the aging actress may be one of the hardest hit in this respect.
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Before cosmetic surgery to enhance one’s beauty became commonplace, various alternative approaches were used to achieve the same end. Indeed, in the world of the theatre, the heroically corseted diva (to quote Alistair McLean) was the rule rather than the exception. Mae West and Margaret Dumont, amongst many others, both relied heavily on their corsets for most of their careers. I have chosen these two ladies to illustrate a point here, since their approach to corsetry was so dramatically different. To Mae, born in 1893, and Margaret in 1889, corsets were an everyday item. Mae, however, who tended to a plumpness inherited from her Bavarian mother (who actually modelled corsets for a while), used them to control her waist and present a figure that never changed. As age caught up with Mae West (right) so reality retreated and her corsets, wigs and teeth, once the cream on the cake became the essence of the cake. In the picture here, her corsets are struggling to contain her Teutonic waistline and the other appurtenances of beauty are as false as they appear. Mind you, even when she was aged 47 (left - in the film 'My Little Chickadee' with W.C. Fields, 1940), she was not unused to the excesses of theatrical makeup. |
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Miss West as she progressed from the 1930s (left) to the
1970s.
Another reporter wrote "On a movie set, she displays, among other things, great physical fortitude in her tortuous corsets. Those, together with her high heels, are responsible for her celebrated waddle, and it has been guessed that if she ever fell down while thus encumbered, she'd be helpless as an overturned turtle." |
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Talking of heroically corseted divas (Alistair McLean -
above), the following was written about Australia's famous Dame Nellie Melba
in Carol Kane's book 'Diva': "...observing the prima donna as she did her star turn. Plump, double-chinned and heavily corseted..." Dame Nellie (1861 - 1931) always wore corsets as would her peers, but on the left, it achieved what was in 1904, a fashionable shape, whereas on the right, a few decades later, the corsets were trying to retain a shape that had effectively been lost. The poor lady died after suffering sepsis from a skin infection caused by an unsuccessful attempt at a face-lift. What a shame and what a tragic loss of an exceptional voice. "Melba was not visually convincing as the fragile, consumptive, little embroiderer Mimi, but that voice of hers was so beautiful nobody complained." |
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I have heard talk about neck corsets. Such a device, of course, if it were truly
a corset, would throttle the wearer in short order, however, one British
actress, far, far beyond her ‘sell-by date’, did resort to a false neck. (I
had a few comments on this artifice; frankly quite scathing. I was rescued by my
husband who remembered a picture of a woman having her back and neck
straightened by means of a corset and a celluloid neck piece - this can be
glimpsed on the right. It would take little modification to shorten the
under-jaw extension thus rendering the device virtually invisible - IL).
But I digress. This ancient relic of the British music halls had, as many older
women do, developed a turkey skin wattle below her jaw. The false neck, made of
stiffened flesh-coloured latex, covered her own neck and was secured beneath her
wig at the back. A projecting piece of rubber fitted under her lower jaw, thus
forcing the wattle into that convenient cavity from where it had dropped. This
also had the effect of stretching the skin across the jaw and removing some of
her myriad wrinkles. Her oversized dentures performed a similar stretching on
the face. Lastly, and this was, and is, still commonly practiced, her scalp was
taped. This requires powerful surgical plaster to be stuck just above the
forehead and pulled strongly backwards. It is in effect, a non-surgical
facelift. The plaster adheres to the scalp. Such ‘taping’ can pull the sides of
the face taut as well. The base of the plaster in the case of this actress was
taped down the back of the false neck, thus securing the whole artificiality of
the poor woman. Apparently ‘taping’ is extremely uncomfortable, let alone the
false neck.
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But some women like Miss Dumont do grow old gracefully, even if tried to the limits of endurance by the Marx Brothers.
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Margaret Dumont, on the other hand, wore the corsets appropriate to her age and peer group. She was genuinely 'classy', and suffered the outrageous antics of the Marx Brothers with every emotion from stoicism to hysterics. She was ungraciously called 'Old Ironsides' by way of reference to her corsets. The attitude of the Marx Brothers towards Margaret illustrates a not-untypical irreverence for the elderly, combined with a genuine respect. Harpo, in particular, used to hide her wig, and on more than one occasion, the furious actress would chase Harpo, towel around her head, as fast as her corsets would allow. One night Groucho, following Margaret Dumont offstage, began leaping from one side of her long-trained evening dress to the other as if he were playing hopscotch; another night he landed on the train itself, stranding Dumont in her corsets. Dumont chose to go trainless after that.
Once Margaret was reduced to tears, the Brothers would re-group and apologise profusely. The stunts would resume soon afterwards. It's a fascinating glimpse into the world of youthful exuberance, elderly restraint and the Mother-figure.
I'm not sure what Groucho is doing to Miss Dumont's corsets in this picture (far right).
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The corseted actress reappeared in the 1970's, courtesy of the amply proportioned Janet Webb, who graced the Morecambe and Wise Show between 1969 and 1972. Her appearance is a take-off of the old stage saying, "It's never over 'till the fat lady sings". Calling such a beautiful woman as the late Miss. Webb fat is, of course, very insulting, but required under the conditions of poetic license. She was, however, tightly corseted for some of the scenes, however latterly, with her health failing, she wears a bra and little other support (right) since in one shot, her navel can clearly be seen.
So we have three instances here. 1) Corsetry used to persuade an audience, and latterly the actress herself, that nothing had changed over the years. 2) Corsetry used simply as a matter of fact by a character actress, and 3) the concept of theatrical corsetry camped up in that quintessentially English style of humour. But let us leave you with Miss Webb at her very (corsetted best!) |
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The
elderly, and particularly, the elderly in the public eye, have resorted to all
manner of deceptions to convince their admirers that nothing has changed. The list of artificial appliances is almost endless, and in some cases highly
inventive. Books have even been written on the topic that covers nose moulds,
latex stockings and some ingenious solutions to ‘that’ problem. After all, an
elderly and tightly corseted woman cannot sit at a formal dinner for five hours
without the call of nature becoming completely unbearable.
Hip-spring
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Most definitely a corset for a woman. This example has a hip-spring of 13 inches, close to the limits of normality.
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"Married to your Corsets"
When the baby boy,
who would become Kapitan-Leutnant Walter Schwieger (the U-boat ace that
torpedoed the Lusitania), was born, his mother looked
at the infant and famously said “How nice. Now take it away”. Within a day,
her once-elegant figure was returned to its pre-pregnancy glory courtesy of the
corsets she had worn half a year before. This feat would neither have been easy,
nor comfortable, but with her attitude towards the birth and plenty of strong
maids to dress her, it was quite achievable. This act would ensure that Frau Schwieger would never actually regain her true figure without aid. She, like all her peers, were as firmly married to their corsets as they were to their husbands.
This lady would have been born around 1865, however, reliance on
corsets was common until the end of the First World War. This meant that even as
late as the 1980’s there were numerous elderly women who literally could not
live un-corsetted, largely due to the post-pregnancy desire to appear as if
nothing had happened as quickly as possible.
A female inmate of
Singapore’s notorious Changi prison during the Second World War was absolutely
distressed, not by the treatment of her jailers, or the loss of freedom, but by
the loss of her corsets without which she was excessively uncomfortable.
Eventually, she bartered a horde of cigarettes for another lady’s corset.
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A German Thalysia corset from the 1950's designed for an utterly flat post-partum abdomen |
As I mentioned
earlier, the corsetiere that I
use in Sussex recounts many instances of women whose first act of the day is to
don their corsets, and their last act before retiring to remove them. Without
this accustomed support, back-ache would immobilize them within a few hours.
This is a physiological condition not really a psychological one, although the
latter, and the desire to appear at one’s best do, of course, play a part. I should point out
that many of these women in no way had medical conditions that required the constant use
of a corset, it was simply the life-long habit of wearing one. These women were
both a blessing and a curse to their corsetieres. Obviously, the corsetiere
lives from the commission on selling corsets, and the more she sells, the more
she earns. Maintaining contacts, seeking new clients and ‘net-working’ (as
it is called today) was a very important part of the corsetiere’s trade. The
down side, and I know that this forced many women out of the trade, was the
elderly woman’s perception that, once fitted, every personal problem
encountered thereafter could be laid at the corsetiere’s doorstep. The elegant lady on the right (1948) is unmistakably wearing a corset. The erect posture, the tubular shape of the hips are all giveaways to what probably is the style of foundation garment that she has worn since her teenage years.
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In Edith Thronton McLeod's excellent book 'Beauty After Forty', she speaks simply and eloquently about how to look your best. Poor Miss McLeod would shudder at the female life forms that one encounters on the streets of Britain today.
Certainly no great lover of boned corsets herself, she is, however, adamant about torso control and well-fitted foundations. She illustrates her book quite charmingly with the adjacent pictures.
My husband was amused by the picture on the right. "It's sad when grow old and so confused that you wear you corsets over your dress!" Really.
What we see on the right is an extreme example of the advertisements showing a lady wearing a girdle over her knickers. It's simply for modesty. |
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The following account eloquently describes many of the trials of growing old.
The
country squire had been married for many years. Mrs. M., was a vigorous and
forceful lady, who did not suffer fools gladly (amongst whom she appeared to
regard her husband). On this committee and that committee, Mrs. M. was tolerated
by the phlegmatic rural community, in the same way that all pestilences had been
tolerated for centuries. That was by quiet hope, and prayers for the divine
removal of the affliction.
Inevitably,
Mrs. M. was also a local magistrate who suffered from none of the modern,
socialist, ‘soft’ approach to criminals. Unfortunately, the length of
sentence decreed by this paragon of rectitude was closely controlled by her
temper, and her temper was largely controlled by her back. Now this may appear
very unprofessional, however, it is a historical fact, that many thousands of
soldiers have been sent to their deaths, simply because the General's 'piles'
were playing up!
Mrs.
M’s assault on each new day followed a pattern. Rising at 6.30 am precisely,
she would emerge from her bed, a somewhat less than attractive apparition in her
voluminous nightie. She would pick up some underclothes and retire to the
bathroom. She appeared to have the eyes of an owl, for all this was achieved with
merely the glow from the lamp standard outside their house.
Emerging
after a noisy 10 minutes clad in brassiere and surgical stockings under her
house-coat, she would shuffle to her chest of drawers, her abdomen supported by
her hands. This gave Mr. M. the first clue as to the potential severity of Mrs.
M’s temper. Was she stooping? Would she groan as she bent over to retrieve her
Spencer corset from the Ottoman chest at the foot of the bed? The corset would
be laid on her bed; she would sit into the corset and fasten the back suspenders
and side suspenders. She would then pull her long knickers up to her knees and
insert her feet into her shoes (the latter act being impossible once corseted).
Lying down, the innumerable hooks and eyes that closed the front of the device
would be attached. Occasionally she would mismatch the hooks with the eyes,
which would call forth an angry fusillade of “tut-tutting”. Recumbent on the
bed (in the Trendelenberg position), and wriggling her abdomen into its proper
place, Mrs. M. would attack the laces and work them up from the bottom of the
corset, tightening the device inch by inch. The sound track that accompanied
this process always amused her husband, as with much puffing and straining, Mrs.
M achieved the desired tension, largely proportional to the condition of her
back. On regaining the vertical, the final tension was administered, the bow was
tied, and the spare lace tucked behind the flap. At last with the lights on, Mr.
M. had to admit that the corset certainly did its job well, for his wife’s
desperately saggy abdomen was now as flat as a board, and her troublesome spine
rigidly encased in its steel and brocaded satin cocoon. The sound track
continued as Mrs. M. started to complain about her back, the weather and the
state of the younger generation. Her corsets would join in the daily tirade,
since once tightened beyond some critical tension, they tended to creak
alarmingly as she moved around the bedroom.
Mr.
M’s dilemma was his inside knowledge of his wife’s temper. If she was
sitting on the bench at the magistrate’s sessions that day, he knew how she
would behave, and it seemed rather unfair that some hapless felon should be
parted from his family for an extra three months, simply because his wife’s
back was ‘playing up’. What to do?
Mr.
M. was a popular figure at the local town’s Conservative club, where he played
snooker with several colleagues, coincidentally, most of them lawyers. He felt
that he could not possibly interfere in the process of law, however, he also
felt that his wife’s decision-making process was unreasonably erratic; a fact
well known to his legal friends at the snooker table. It was at one of the
club’s social functions, that Mrs. M. unreasonably snapped at one of the
lawyers. Mr. M. later apologised or her behalf, and seeing his chance, added
“You can always tell when she’s going to be bad tempered; you can hear her
stays creaking”. This apparently light-hearted aside revolutionised the
magistrate’s court, as the court secretary listened for the tell-tale creaking
of Mrs. M’s corsets, and informed the lawyers whether to proceed that day or
to suspend until a later date!
Mother's Bridge Friends (Winchester, Britain 1958)
Every other Wednesday, Mother liked to play Bridge and this usually provided a pleasant distraction for me during the holidays. Mother's Bridge friends were all older than her, I think in their late fifties and sixties, and I would position myself by the landing window to watch them arrive. Mrs. P., a large and well dressed lady, was normally quite prompt and she usually gave Mrs. L. a lift. These two were always good value. First of all there would be the performance of Mrs. P. attempting to get out of the car. First the door would open followed by one monstrous leg in its fitted stocking and sensible shoes. The next leg would emerge and then grasping the door frame in both hands, the magnificent bosom of the woman would emerge, closely followed by the rest of her body which could then be levered up to the vertical. I often wondered how she could ever get behind the wheel of her car so vast was her bosom. She carried this prodigious bust like the ram of an ironclad. Indeed, ironclad she might have been since I saw no flexibility in her figure at all. In contrast, Mrs. L. was slim, tall and extremely elegant for somebody well into their sixties. It was only when she walked that the restrictions of her surgical corset became apparent. I learnt that she suffered periodically with that bane of the elderly, a bad back. I had overheard from Mother that during these spells, she enlisted the help of Mrs. P. who had been a nurse, to help her into her corsets on a Monday. Release from her tea-rose brocaded prison depended on the expert eye and good offices of her friend. Her periodic incarcerations could last a week, so poorly was her back and so helpless was the old lady when thus afflicted. She was often heard to say "Agatha's awfully strong you know, but it's good for my back; not to mention my figure!" She was a delightful lady who I imagined resented the embarrassing indignity of her weekly ritual with her formidable partner. I frequently wondered how these corseted old women ever were allowed to drive, for surely there was no earthly way that they would have the flexibility to drive properly.
My father had an irreverent way with names and frequently the butt of his unkind inventions were mother’s bridge cronies, or crones as father would remark.
Juniper was a singularly appropriate name for a stout lady called June. This jolly old soul kept her spirits high on a daily ration of gin, the calorific consequences of which were controlled by an old-fashioned laced corselette. Of course I never saw the garment, but the tell-tale bulges under the armpits gave away her secret. Her powerful foundation ensured that her clothes fitted perfectly over the corset, but her unfettered arms and legs had grown to fill her sleeves and skirt to the point where her very locomotion was impeded.
Polly’s years overseas had played havoc with her complexion which had deteriorated into a myriad of fine wrinkles on a distinctly yellow base, a consequence of anti-malarial prophylaxis. Heavy make-up (Polyfilla) filled the cracks and restored an approximation of English Rose colouration. My father used to tease me and suggested that she used to spread her make-up with a trowel. This wasn’t so far from the truth and her heavy make-up rendered her expression curiously immobile.
Bendy Wendy was a tall, thin woman whose height had engendered a stooping posture. My mother always said that her poor posture would give her back problems and ultimately this was the case. Sometimes she would appear stooped, and other times she would be ramrod straight depending on whether her condition necessitated the wearing of her corsets. “It’s a lumbo-sacral support” she once announced proudly although indistinctly since her neck was held immobile in a collar (not a modern spongy thing I might add but one of those perforated leather devices that can pull apart vertebrae, or so the old woman claimed).
Varicose Vera had alarmingly knobbly legs that even the power of her heavy-duty surgical stocking could not conceal. She always wore two sets of stockings, with more fashionable support stockings over the elastic ones. Supporting all this hosiery caused her quite some trouble until she came on the solution of wearing a corselette over her corset (that must have been a good commission - Ivy). In this way, both sets of stockings were secured and the engineering of the corset concealed, or so she believed; incorrectly. At least she was happy, even if the click of neighbouring suspenders accompanied her every move. Father once said “I think she’s got the four musketeers under there!”
One poor lady to whom my father’s warped humour never had to be applied was unfortunately called Miss Mellon. A completely average woman in all regards she possessed the most disproportionately enormous bosom. This can be remedied these days, but in the 1960’s, she simply had to live with it. Convention and comfort demanded that she wore a bra and whatever corsetiere she frequented (for no off the shelf model would have fitted, I’m sure), ensured that her breasts were hoisted into place. This feast of engineering left the women with a serious blind-spot and she had to hold her cards well up to see over her bust. As all heavy-breasted women know, back and neck-ache are constant companions. When she partnered Bendy Wendy, the difficulties of articulating clearly and even seeing the cards properly resulted in some very strange bids indeed.
Not one of these women could move as nature intended, whether it was tightly confined thighs and legs, an immobile visage, hair or neck, I was often reminded of a group of puppets. With nylon commonly being worn and meaty stocking-clad thighs acting like a generator, to attempt a hand-shake was to risk electrocution!
My mother, in such company, seemed almost boringly normal and average, but even she was a victim of 1960’s fashion and sported a hurricane-proof hairstyle completely lacquered to immobility. Her girdle held her in but limited her flexibility. As Vivian Vance once said before meeting the Queen, “If I wear a girdle to fit into my dress, I can’t curtsey!”
Confinement and Locomotion
The comments above caused me to search our web-site for articles on similar subjects. I've grouped them together with a view to expanding on this topic in the future.
It took me ages to help my
friend dress, the process being complicated by the corset and the back fastening
of the dress which was covered by at least 30 buttons. There was no way that my
friend could release herself from the dress and corset without help. In fact, I
remember having great difficulty in removing my own dress that evening since my
arms filled the sleeves so tightly that reaching behind my head to undo the zip
was nigh on impossible.
The bride needs bridesmaids to control the flowing train. She needs help to alight from car, even to sit down, and undressing by herself is impossible. Her mother, heroically girdled to fit a dress two sizes too small barely dares to breathe. Her feet ache in unaccustomed shoes and any attempt to sit causes her thighs to spring open alarmingly. Granny totters around, the rubber, elastic and steel contraption that is her foundation confining her locomotion to that of a marionette. Even the gorgeous young thing in the modern twin set is reduced by her panty-girdle, pencil skirt and heels to a ludicrous mincing gait. Not one of the ladies can sit in comfort, going to the loo is a nightmare, and nobody walks in the way that nature intended. An extreme example perhaps? I don't think so, and that's why everybody stands at weddings!
Did stiff, old ladies walk like that because they wore stiff, old corsets? Certainly, the joints stiffen with age, but a woman's locomotion is very dependent upon her underpinnings. Ask any young secretary from the late 1950's clad in tight skirt, heels and panty-girdle of tourniquet strength!
She strutted into dinner at an Eastbourne hotel, each step a jerky battle of muscle and elastic. She sat rigid and erect with her less formidably corsetted friends. When the soup came, she could not raise her hands as far as her mouth and in embarrassment left the table. Some while later she returned, less erect, but with mobility restored.
The Husbands' Education
I had very little to do with my wife's underwear, other than foot the bills I suppose. I was quite shocked at one bill from a corsetry emporium in London (Rigby & Peller at a guess - Ivy) but let it pass. A few weeks later my wife was dressing for dinner and I heard unusually strong language emanating from the dressing room. My wife was tugging at her girdle that seemed stuck around her thighs. I watched the spectacle with fascination as she crossed her legs, grabbed the garment and with a convulsive heave jerked the girdle an inch at a time up her hips. Her contortions jumped her off the ground in what looked like a potentially dangerous fashion. My rapt attention was not appreciated, however, once the girdle was properly located she turned round and to my astonishment said "Well do something useful. Lace me up!" I realised that this girdle laced half way down the back; in fact it was the only method of entry hence the heroic struggle.
I courted an elegant older lady for years before we wed. Marrying late in life is a steep learning curve. She was surprised that my teeth were my own (hers were not), and I was surprised at the complexity of her corsets. My first wife had worn a girdle all the time I knew her, but this long, unyielding structure with its intricate lacings and buckles that my new wife wore was quite alien to me. "It's good for my back and it keeps my tummy flat!" she said the first time I saw her thus attired; "Haven't you seen a woman in corsets before?" I wisely refrained from saying "Not since my Granny" so I had to admit that I hadn't. The device certainly gave her a fine figure of which she was proud and I, in turn, was proud of my new wife despite her complicated underpinnings.
Talking about complex underpinnings, regard the yards of lacing on the left, granny looking put out that you have photographed her in her abdominal corsets before she's had a chance to put her teeth in. I wonder if it is her corsets or lack of teeth that she finds embarrassing? The poor old dears on the right have just spent a day with the grandchildren and can now relax. Have a cuppa, lie back and unlace those corsets, unhook those suspenders and reeelaaax.